Customizing Your FPV Goggles with 3D Printed Parts
Stock FPV goggles work, but they rarely fit perfectly. Whether you are running analog box goggles like the Eachine EV800D, slimline HDZero goggles, or premium DJI Goggles 3, 3D printing unlocks a universe of comfort and functionality upgrades that transform the flying experience.
Custom Faceplates for Perfect Fit
The stock foam faceplate on most goggles follows a one-size-fits-all philosophy that fits nobody perfectly. Light leaks around the nose, pressure points on the cheekbones, and fogging are common complaints. A 3D printed faceplate, printed in flexible TPU (Shore hardness 95A is ideal), contours to your specific face shape.
Start by tracing your face profile on paper and scanning it, or use a free photogrammetry app to generate a rough 3D scan. Import this into Fusion 360 or Blender as a reference, then design the faceplate to match your brow ridge, nose bridge, and cheek depth. Print at 0.2 mm layer height with 15% gyroid infill for a balance of flexibility and support.
For those without 3D modeling experience, Thingiverse and Printables host dozens of pre-designed faceplates for popular goggles. Search for your goggle model plus “faceplate” or “comfort mod.” Even a generic TPU faceplate improves comfort dramatically over stock foam.
Active Cooling Fan Mounts
Fogging ruins flights. When your body heat and breath moisture condense on cold goggle lenses, you are blind in seconds. A small 25 mm or 30 mm 5V fan mounted in a 3D printed shroud solves this permanently. The fan circulates air across the lens surface, preventing condensation even during humid summer sessions.
The design is simple: measure the interior of your goggles, model a bracket that clips or screws into existing mounting points, and include a duct that directs airflow across the lenses. Power the fan from a small 1S LiPo or a USB power bank strapped to the headband. Many pilots wire the fan to a PWM controller for adjustable speed — low airflow for casual flying, full blast for intense race heats.
Popular fan modules include the Noctua NF-A4x10 5V (virtually silent) and the 30 mm Sunnon MagLev fan. The Noctua is the gold standard for noise-conscious pilots, while the Sunnon moves more air per watt.
Antenna Mounts and Cable Management
Aftermarket antennas are heavier than stock dipoles, and the SMA connectors on most goggles are not designed to bear weight. A 3D printed bracket that transfers the antenna load to the goggle housing prevents connector fatigue and eventual failure of the internal RP-SMA solder joints.
Design a clamp or bracket that wraps around the antenna stem and screws into existing goggle shell features. For diversity setups running an omni and a patch, print a mount that angles the patch slightly downward — this aligns the beam center with your typical flying area. Add cable routing channels to keep the headphone and battery wires tidy.
Prescription Lens Holders
If you wear glasses, cramming them inside FPV goggles is miserable. A 3D printed lens holder that accepts cheap Zenni Optical lenses (or custom-ground diopter inserts) places corrective optics directly in front of the goggle screens. Design a snap-in frame that replaces or sits atop the stock lens holder, with slots sized for standard 37 mm or 40 mm round lenses. Print in PLA or PETG — no flexibility needed here, just dimensional accuracy.
Getting Started Printing
Almost all goggle mods can be printed on a stock Ender 3 or Prusa i3. For TPU parts, use a direct-drive extruder if possible — Bowden setups can print TPU but require slow speeds (15–20 mm/s) and careful retraction tuning. Set the bed temperature to 50°C for TPU, 70°C for PETG, and apply a thin layer of glue stick for adhesion.
What 3D printed goggle mods have you made? Share your designs in the comments!